Heat sugar in a pan and it melts, turns gold, then brown, and starts to smell of caramel. The heat is running chemical reactions: the sugar molecules break apart and join up into hundreds of new ones.
Table sugar is sucrose, which you have already met: a glucose ring joined to a fructose ring through one oxygen atom. Most caramel recipes start with sugar and a splash of water. In the hot syrup, some of the sucrose splits back into glucose and fructose. Each split takes in a water molecule: it is the condensation that joined the two rings, running backwards.
From syrup to caramel
The water boils off first, and as it goes the syrup gets hotter. At about 150 °C, the stage cooks call hard crack, the syrup is almost pure sugar, still clear, and it sets into glassy boiled sweets. From about 160 °C the sugar molecules themselves start to come apart. Glucose and fructose give off water, crack into smaller pieces, and the pieces join up again in new ways. Many reactions run side by side, and together they make hundreds of different molecules.
Some of the new molecules are small, and they drift up out of the pan as the smell and taste of caramel. Butanedione, C₄H₆O₂, a chain of four carbons with two ketone groups, tastes of butter. Others join into big molecules, built from sugar units that gave off water as they linked. Chemists have named three families of them: caramelans, caramelens and caramelins. A caramelin molecule is huge: C₁₂₅H₁₈₈O₈₀.
Many of these big molecules carry runs of alternating double bonds, the colour-makers of lesson 15. They absorb violet and blue light, so caramel looks golden brown, and the longer the sugar cooks, the darker it gets.